Inner London
Ramblers

Brixton to Crystal Palace Linear Walk

This walk starts at Brixton Underground Station and ends at Crystal Palace Bus or National Rail Station. The route goes via Brockwell Park, Ruskin Park, Dulwich Village, Dulwich Park, Sydenham Hill Wood Nature Reserve, Dulwich Woods, Sydenham Wells Park and Crystal Palace Park.

This is an easy walk of about 9 miles (15km), but with plenty of drop-out points should you wish for something shorter. It visits a number of South London’s most attractive parks, together with a good woodland stretch, and ends at the historic Crystal Palace site. The route tries to minimise road walking, but most of the route is still hard-surfaced; the wooded section can be quite muddy.

2. Take the forward path, keeping close to the backs of houses. Towards the top of the rise, fork right to go past a children’s playground and, at the junction after, turn left to keep close to the block of flats on the right. Go over the next cross-paths and, in 20 metres, turn left on a path between railings to cross a bridge, then pass a small lake on your right. Continue forward past a second and third lake, ignoring side paths, eventually skirting a walled garden to your left. As the wall ends, swing around left to enter these gardens. Note the remains of a model village just to the left of the garden entrance. Explore this unexpectedly secluded garden, with its clipped yew hedges and formal paths, at will, then return to the entrance.

Brockwell Park walled garden

3. Now continue in the same direction as before, walking uphill to more gardens. Ignore the first path on the left but, in another 25 metres, turn left on the cross-path to pass to the right of an ornamental clock, known as Little Ben. There are toilets available nearby. Go forward, with metal benches on your left, to pass Brockwell Hall, built 1811-13 on your right at the top of the hill. Continue forward, ignoring side paths, along a gradually descending path towards a railway bridge and road junction visible in the distance. There is a good view of the Canary Wharf complex ahead and, as you descend on the path, more London landmarks come into view, including the London Eye, the British Telecom Tower and Battersea Power Station. The spire in the middle distance ahead is that of St Paul’s Church, built 1843-44 and a favourite of Ruskin.

4. Cross the road junction by the lights, go under the railway bridge, and turn left into Milkwood Road. The heavy railway wall on the left soon gives way to an open fence with Herne Hill Station behind. Continue up Milkwood Road, cross Shardcroft Avenue and, as the road curves right, turn right into Gubyon Avenue and, in another 30 metres, left into Fawnbrake Avenue. Follow this pleasant tree-lined street for 500 metres, then cross Poplar Walk to continue along Ferndene Road, shortly crossing Herne Hill Road. The imposing building on the corner of Herne Hill Road is the Carnegie Library, built in 1904.

Drop-out point: The P4 bus runs along this road should you want to return to Brixton from here.

5. Continue along Ferndene Road and, in 25 metres, turn left into Ruskin Park. Keep to the path by the right-hand fence, next to the road with a field on the left. Continue forward past a toilet block and another gate until railings surrounding gardens are reached. Pass through the lower of two gates, turn left and then turn right through a brick-built walkway. The sunken area on your left used to be a bowling green. At the end of the walkway, turn left down to steps and keep to the left of a pond. The large building ahead is part of King’s College Hospital. Ruskin Park was named after John Ruskin, who lived nearby, and celebrated its centenary in 2007. The gardens of six of the houses on Denmark Hill were incorporated into the park and the portico of No 170, built in 1799, remains as a public shelter. Now swing around right to walk up the other side of the pond and, at its end, turn left on a secluded path, coming out by a broad flight of steps. Turn right up these, passing the portico on your right, and continue, to leave the park by the gate further on to the left.

6. Carefully cross the busy Denmark Hill. The road was originally named Dulwich Hill, but the name was changed in honour of Queen Anne’s husband, Prince George of Denmark, who lived locally. Pass in front of the Fox on the Hill pub. Food and refreshments can be found here if needed. At the far end of the carpark, turn right along Champion Hill. Old walls in front of new buildings testify to the substantial villas that were once here. Some still remain. Continue to the crossroads at the top of the rise, then turn right. Pass in front of flats and turn left down Arnould Avenue, then quickly turn right into Domett Close. At the far end of this cul-de-sac take the stepped path through the estate to emerge by a small pub.

7. Now go forward slightly downhill along the combined cycletrack/footpath (Green Dale), eventually passing playing fields on both sides. This area is a quiet backwater now, and it seems hard to believe that no fewer than four V1 flying bombs landed in these fields in 1944-45 but with, fortunately, no fatalities. As Green Dale changes into a road, note the coats of arms on the railway bridge, together with the initials “AC” and the date, 1866. The arms are those of Alleyn’s College and the London and Brighton Railway. Continue for another 100 metres to reach East Dulwich Grove.

Drop-out point: East Dulwich Grove is served by the 37 bus route which will take you back to Brixton if you feel you have walked enough.

Cross East Dulwich Grove at the lights to enter Townley Road, then veer right into Calton Avenue after 50 metres. After more playing fields on the left, comes the church of St Barnabas, built in 1996 to replace its Victorian predecessor destroyed by fire. The spire, unusually, is made of glass. Continue forward to the main crossroads in Dulwich Village.

8. Just past the old churchyard, with its attractive wrought-iron gates, and where lie the Dulwich victims of the Great Plague, turn left along Dulwich Village itself. There is another chance to return to Brixton here via the P4 bus route. Shortly pass a splendid Victorian pub, the Crown and Greyhound. There used to be two pubs here, the Crown, favoured by labourers and the Greyhound, favoured by the more well-to-do. The Greyhound has now disappeared, the Crown being rebuilt c1895 as the Crown and Greyhound. Look up to see the elaborate decoration and, in summer, a fine floral display. Further along the road, fine 18th century houses on the left contrast with the more modest and newer ones on the right. A small traffic roundabout is reached — attractive with its granite drinking fountain, finger post and shrubs. The small spiky white building diagonally opposite is the Old Grammar School, whilst immediately forward are the original buildings and chapel of Dulwich College, now Edward Alleyn House. Edward Alleyn founded Dulwich College in 1619 and the Estate still owns much land hereabouts.

9. Continue on the left-hand pavement, past the bank and, in another 100 metres, turn left through Old College Gate into Dulwich Park. Art lovers might want to visit Dulwich Picture Gallery first, however. The entrance to this is by the low brick building on the opposite side of the road, just past the Old College Chapel. This is Britain’s oldest purpose built art gallery (admission charge). The collection was originally put together in 1790-95 for the King of Poland, but when he was forced to abdicate, the dealers, Noël Desanfans and Francis Bourgeois, had to find another home for the paintings. They were left to Dulwich College in 1811, and include works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Poussin, Murillo and Gainsborough.

10. The Grade II-listed Dulwich Park is a fine late Victorian public park, opened in 1890, formed from former grazing land known as the Five Fields. Some of the oaks in the park are old hedgerow trees dating from this time. Walk along the Carriage Drive and pass through the traffic barrier. Go forward along the left fork for 50 metres, then take the gravel path crossing the sanded horse-ride. On reaching the low railing, turn right then quickly left, to cross a bridge with a pretty shrubbery on the right and a lake on the left, which supports a variety of wildfowl. Continue alongside this lake, swinging left until a railed boardwalk over the lake is reached, then walk along this. At its end, cross over a path and take the forward path swinging right past rhododendrons. This emerges at a T-junction, where turn left up to toilets. The park café is over to the left.

Dulwich Park

11. Turn right at the toilets then almost immediately left on a broad tarmac path. In 30 metres, turn right on a gravel path, passing a play area on the right. Ignoring all side paths, make for a small block of flats seen in the distance. This part of the park contains the American Garden which boasts a stunning display of azaleas in May, and Queen Mary was noted for her annual visits to view them. Where the path divides at a wooden shelter, swing right then shortly left to cross the sanded horse-ride again and exit the park through the Rosebery Gate ahead of you. Now turn left along Dulwich Common, now part of the South Circular Road.

Drop-out point: Again, the P4 bus can take you back to Brixton from here if desired.

On reaching the road junction after 350 metres, cross Dulwich Common at the lights and enter Cox’s Walk, just to the right of the church. The church was formerly dedicated to St Peter and was built between 1873-74. It has seen better days, but is surprisingly spacious inside.

12. Follow the well-surfaced path uphill and, just as gates are reached, turn left over the bridge. This spans an abandoned railway line, built to serve the newly erected Crystal Palace, and it was from here in 1871 that the impressionist painter, Camille Pissarro, executed his painting of a train leaving Lordship Lane Station. The painting now hangs in the Coultauld Institute Galleries. At the end of the bridge, turn right through a swing gate to enter the London Wildlife Trust’s Sydenham Hill Wood Nature Reserve. Ascend steps on an earthen path. The numbered posts in the reserve are points on a nature trail, a leaflet for which is available. Ignoring side paths, keep to the mainly level main path. Go through a clearing and ease left to continue on the main path, which soon twists right, then forks left through holly bushes. Just past a post, numbered “4” is a mock ruin — a folly dating from Victorian times.

Snow scene at Sydenham Hill Folly

13. Now go forward over ridges to quickly find an obvious path with steps and follow this, initially besides a fence, at it twists about and descends to come out onto the broad crossing track of the former railway. It is worth diverting a few metres to the left to inspect the spectacular tunnel which took the railway to the Crystal Palace High Level Station. Returning to your previous point, go forward over shallow steps (offset slightly) and pass through a line of posts to continue more-or-less forward — the path is indistinct for a few paces, but soon becomes obvious. Continue for 50 metres or so, ending at a T-junction. Turn left here to find a twisting, but well-defined path. Eventually, allotments and a carpark come into view. After some distance, pass a cross–path with a litter bin and bench. Do not turn here, but continue forward for some distance, modern housing making an appearance on the right. The path comes out through a gate onto Low Cross Lane. The extensive woods you have been passing through are the remnants of the Great North Wood, from which Norwood derives its name. There is a mixture of oak and hornbeam, and an occasional exotic tree from when the wood included parts of large gardens. The woods are still privately owned, but Dulwich Estates, to whom they belong, have an enlightened policy of allowing free public access.

Drop-out point: If you'd like to finish the walk at this point, turn right to catch a train at Sydenham Hill Station, otherwise...

14. Turn left to ascend the lane. At the top of the lane, detour left for a few metres along Crescent Wood Road to view No 3, where lived John Logie Baird, the inventor of television. A little further along, across the road, is Six Pillars, an important modernist house. Retrace your steps and pass the Dulwich Wood House, then cross the busy Sydenham Hill via the pedestrian crossing and enter Wells Park Road opposite.

Recommended pub: The Dulwich Wood House, owned by Young’s, feels more like a comfortable house than a pub, and was indeed originally the home of Sir Joseph Paxton, the designer of the Crystal Palace. The real ale is always in good condition and there is an extensive garden.

15. Follow the gently curving Wells Park Road downhill. Look for a gate in railings on the right between a wooded area and No 159, and descend to see the other end of the railway tunnel whose acquaintance you first made in Sydenham Hill Wood. Then retrace your steps to Wells Park Road and continue downhill. In another 100 metres, cross Longton Avenue and turn right into Sydenham Wells Park. The park is the remnant of Sydenham Common and medicinal wells were discovered here around 1640, but not developed until the early 19th century. Take the right fork and descend into the bowl of the park, ignoring all cross-paths, to pass between two lakes. Continue forward up a rising path to leave the park. Cross Longton Avenue (again), go up Ormanton Road, and cross the busy Westwood Hill. Go forward into Charleville Circus, bearing left around the circle of houses, then along the remainder of the street to emerge onto Crystal Palace Park Road, where turn left downhill for 100 metres and enter Crystal Palace Park via Fishermen’s Gate on the opposite side of the road.

16. Turn left after 25 metres and, towards the bottom of the hill, turn left on a side path at the Capital Ring sign. Go over the next cross-paths, then past a carpark, and continue all the way down to a second carpark. The buildings now on your right contain toilets and an information centre where free leaflets and a park map can be obtained. On the small hill ahead is a café. Go up behind this to reach Dinosaur Lake. Here turn right to keep the lake on your left. A group of Irish Elks marks the start of the Prehistoric Monster Trail for which a leaflet is available. The thirty-three life-sized creatures were created in 1854 by Benjamin Waterhouse Hawkins under the direction of Professor D T Ansted. Research since that date has revealed that at least some of them are now known to be anatomically incorrect. They have recently been restored, together with replicated geological features.

Dinosaur, Crystal Palace Park

17. Keep left at successive junctions, then cross the bridge by the geological strata to bear left at a fine old oak and explore the main group of dinosaurs. At the far end of the lake, turn right twice to ascend a slope. Ignore the first path on the right, but take the next right at the flat-roofed building to keep the National Sports Centre on your left, eventually swinging right downhill. At the bottom, turn left on a cross-path and go past toilets, then straight over the next cross-path and past swings on the right, to eventually arrive back at a path where you were earlier. Turn left here and, at the top of a short hill, turn left in front of the somewhat-hidden Fishing Lake. Go around a series of bends and, where the path becomes more open, look for The Maze on the left. This is a recreation of one of the park’s most famous features, originally created around 1870, but only recently restored. Explore at will before returning to the main path.

18. Now go past the Concert Bowl bandstand. Ignore the paths in front of the first of the terraces, but continue forward to turn left through gates at the top of the hill, then swing right to gain the uppermost terrace, at the top swinging left past monumental sphinxes. There are huge views south-eastwards towards the North Downs, and on your right is the BBC’s Transmitter Mast, at 222 metres, the second-highest structure in Greater London. (Canary Wharf is just 13 metres higher).

The Crystal Palace opened in Hyde Park in 1851 to contain the Exhibition of the Industry of All Nations. It was moved to its new site in Sydenham in 1854, where it remained until destroyed by fire in 1936. Apart from the terraces, there is little now that remains of the palace itself, but the gigantic base of Brunel’s South Water Tower, together with some hydraulic pipework, can be seen by the museum. There are plans to plant a grid of trees to replicate the outline of the palace. The park itself has a long connection with sport; earlier in the walk you passed the National Sports Centre, the FA Cup Final was held in the park between 1895-1914, and there was a famous motor racing circuit in use between 1937-72.

19. Follow the terrace past the remains of statues until a further pair of sphinxes. Take the steps on the right, then turn left to reach the Crystal Palace Museum. Although this is only open on weekend afternoons, admission is free. The museum is housed in the only surviving building constructed by the Crystal Palace Company which dates from about 1880.

The walk finishes here. For a bus connection back to Brixton (Route 3), climb further steps and ascend into a hedged garden to find the bus station ahead of you. Or, to connect with central London by rail, turn left downhill, exit the park right, cross the National Sports Centre approach road, then take the minor road to find Crystal Palace Station ahead.

© Mike Biggs, Inner London Area Ramblers’ Association, 2007.

If you have any comments about this walk, or notice that it needs updating to take account of changes on the route, then please contact Mike at mikebiggs4@aol.com.